Tonight I headed out to a great grape fight to celebrate the end of harvest at Mudgee’s wineries. A couple of young ladies, Lara and Gina, organised this event for the first time last year, gathering up an artillery of unused grapes for a wet, messy, sticky fruit fight called ‘Fight Night’. This year they made it bigger and better, and asked me to write a history of the Fight Night tradition to be read out during the evening. It’s largely invented – although the story of St Trifon is true, or at least not made up by me. Here it is:
The origins of Fight Night are shrouded in mystery. Is it true that early Fight Nights were quite unlike our modern celebrations, and more closely resembled an old woman wrestling a cat? Is it true that the world’s largest Fight Night involved ninety-five winemakers and resulted in two deaths and – nine months later – the birth of triplets?
For many years, Fight Night was a well-kept industry secret. Visitors to cellar doors at the right time of year might notice the winemaker black-eyed and lurking in the shadows of the barrel room, muttering something about walking into a door. Drycleaners in winemaking regions have been bewildered by the regular appearance of tuxedos and gowns smeared with paint, wine and perhaps blood. They have come closest to understanding the tradition, suspecting it resembled their own annual laundry powder skirmish.
The secret tradition emerged into the public spotlight following the carnage in Belp, Romania, in 1993. The near-destruction of the village caused a backlash against the local brother and sister winemakers, which only subsided when the quality of the vintage became apparent. Today, parts of Belp are kept in their ruined state as a memorial, children re-enact the winemakers’ destructive rampage each year at the end of harvest, and wine connoisseurs from around the world visit to retrace the steps of Bogdan and Anka Popescu.
Winemaker Petre Popescu died in 1992, leaving the vineyard in the hands of his adopted daughter Anka, a slim dark-eyed girl abandoned in the vineyard as a baby. Anka had a club foot, crossed eyes, and a small tail, but she toiled beside her adopted father and became a fine winemaker before her 18th birthday.
She filled the void at the winery left by Popescu’s son Bogdan, a handsome but irresponsible young man who had travelled the world at his father’s expense, driving the winery almost to bankruptcy, and now claimed to be learning the family trade at a small Australian vineyard in Bondi.
As Anka prepared the vineyard for the first vintage following the death of her adopted father, the prodigal Bogdan appeared, tanned, dressed in thongs and board shorts, and announcing he was taking over the winery.
After a brief argument culminating in Anka pinning her brother to the wall with a pitchfork, they each agreed to take over half the vineyard and produce separate wines, one of which would be sold as ‘The Real Popescu From Belp’, and the other as ‘No, This Is The Real Popescu From Belp’.
They pruned, they sprayed, they thinned, and just as the grapes on the two halves of the vineyard were beginning to ripen, the rain started.
And it didn’t stop.
As the rain poured down, the brother and sister stalked around the winery complex, erupting whenever they met into roaring arguments over who was to blame for the disastrous weather, or staring silently outside, waiting for the sun to reappear. In later years, Bogdan would claim he was the first to grab a bucket and run out into the rain. Anka would refuse to comment, only pointing out that Bogdan was an ass and ought to be eaten alive, slowly, by goats.
The pair raced into their separate halves of the vineyard with buckets, salvaging the best of their grapes by hand, and racing inside to empty their bucket into a vat and turn again into the driving rain and the slapping mud. They sank up to their knees in the liquid earth and raced again and again up the hill to the winery and back, slowly raising the shallow level of the grapes in their two separate vats. Finally, exhausted and cold, refusing to look at each other, having taken what they could from their vines, they showered side by side and returned to the winery. Glaring at each other over the edges of the vats, they crushed the grapes under their bare feet, squeezing out a shallow wading pool of juice.
Outside, eventually, the rain slowed and stopped, and the sun rolled out through a split in the clouds. The villagers meekly trekked up to the winery, as they did each year, to be hired as pickers, but found the place eerily silent. They shrugged and set off through the vines, taking the split and swollen fruit and piling it up at the winery door. When the work was done, still having seen neither of the siblings, they took a few bucketloads each for their payment and trudged back to the village.
Anka and Bogdan opened the door and looked at the pile of dark worthless grapes, their juice mingling with the puddles underneath. Anka lifted a bunch and picked through it for something she could use – but even she couldn’t tell whether the grapes were hers or her brother’s. She weighed up the fruit in her hand, turned to Bogdan, and hurled it at his head.
Bogdan reached down for a bunch of fruit and splattered it in his adopted sister’s face.
She threw another so roughly it knocked him off his feet, and as he lay stunned in a puddle, she dumped an armload of grapes on his head.
The war spread around the winery, brother and sister hurling fruit at each other and seeking shelter among the barrels, boxes and bottles. They raced through the vineyard, firing fruit at each other across the rows, and eventually emerged into the village.
This time witnesses from the village can confirm that Bogdan was the first to see a bucket of grapes on a villager’s windowsill and take it up as ammunition. Anka kicked in a door across the road and grabbed the grapes from the table to fire back at her brother, and they continued through Belp, wreaking havoc, breaking windows, knocking over lampposts, hurling fruit and leaving the village sticky and splattered in their wake. They raced into the church, toppling a statue of St Trifon – patron saint of viticulturists, forced to cut off his nose with pruning shears after laughing at a passing vision of the Virgin Mary.
Back through the village and up to the winery, they attacked each other with any fruit they found. When the last of it was destroyed, a peace seemed to come over them, as though St Trifon himself had cut off their tempers with his holy shears.
They looked around the grape-soaked winery, looked at their own juicy, dripping bodies, and for the first time came together and hugged like brother and sister. Or brother and adopted sister, which was perhaps a little more intimate.
They squeezed the juice from each other like sponges, then went to their vats and mixed their two juices into one. Side by side, they finished the wine and donated the first bottles to the villagers of Belp, who were still rebuilding and accepted the wine with grunts and a few hints that a little help would also be welcome.
However, when the villagers tasted the wine, they saw what connoisseurs around the world would soon realise – the Popescu siblings had produced the finest wine seen in the village for many years.
The small quantity of wine produced in Belp that year became so valued that it was enough to revive the winery’s ailing finances. The brother and sister continued their remarkable collaboration, its violent fights, and its occasional destructive forays into the village – always paying for the damage with bottles of wine.
The story is now well-known, and we are able to gather here to continue the tradition with a night of passion, violence, wine and mess at Havilah. As Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt begin work on the film version of Anka and Bogdan’s story, let us raise a glass, say a brief prayer to St Trifon to protect us in the brawl ahead – and throw our wine in a friend’s face.
Happy Fight Night!